Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Kwanza Kazi Hospitalini

My blog has hit over 1000 views!! Woohooo! Thank you everyone, I’m feeling the love.

I’m over 5 weeks into my stay here. And once again, I’m slacking on this blog. Since my last post, Swahili and engineering classes at TCDC have ended. Our group has split up and moved to new homes to begin individual work at our hospitals. I am staying in a home with eight girls from EWH, on the outskirts of Arusha. Saying goodbye to our friends was difficult, but we made plans to hang out on the weekends, always the highlight of my week. Leaving Mama Gaude’s house and the comfort of TCDC brought about an unnerving uncertainty; I was just starting to feel at home there and didn’t want to leave. After saying our goodbyes, we boarded the bus and stared silently out the windows, unsure of what to expect the second month. I began to feel my first pangs of homesickness.

Family Portrait: Rafia, Christine, Mama Gaude, and I
Our Kiswahili Mwalimu, Baba Kisanjii : "BOMBA BOMBA!"
Saying goodbye at TCDC: Lauren, Ray, our fearless leader Miguel Angel,
Rishab, and Aman
Our new home isn’t quite as nice as Mama Gaude’s, but it is still considered one of the wealthiest in the area. It is a large brick house owned by a cheerful lady named Mama Macarine, who runs a bed and breakfast style home for travelers. There is no hot water, but bucket showers with boiled water aren’t so bad. The food is your average African dishes: rice, meat stew, soup, chipati, cooked bananas, fried potatoes. They have amazing ginger tea waiting for us every day after work. For the first week, we were short three beds, so we had to share or sleep on the floor, but this week I have my own bed. All and all, not bad.

On the first day we arrived at our new home, it was Mama Macarine's 50th birthday. We had a large party (she's a popular lady), complete with dancing and huge feast. While unpacking, I heard an awful screech coming from right outside my bedroom window, so loud that I jumped in fear. I looked outside the window and watched as two men slaughtered a goat. So much blood. It was one of those things that was just so disgusting it made my stomach churn, but I couldn't seem to look away. We were served goat kabobs at the party later that night.

We began work at our assigned hospitals last week. My partners, Charlotte and Inka, and I were assigned two hospitals, both in the bustling city of Arusha: St. Elizabeth and Ithna Asheri. Both are comparatively “nice” hospitals, but still vastly below standards in the developed world. Let’s just say, I would never ever want to be treated at a Tanzanian hospital, except for something very minor. Seeing the operating room was plenty of motivation to not engage in risky activities here.

At St. Elizabeth, we work with a fundi (“technician”) named Jonas, a pleasant man who only speaks Swahili. Communicating with him is challenging, we do a lot of pointing and hand motioning and making up Swahili words. Jonas is very knowledgeable and resourceful, and we greatly appreciate his help. He has a workshop made out of a large shipping crate, with doors and windows cut out of it. It is filled with a shagalabagala (“mess”) of electronic parts and broken medical equipment, but he keeps his desk area very tidy, a great workspace for us. This reminds me of my dad, who in his workshop has mastered the art of the organized mess. A place for everything and everything in its place. 

Ithna Asheri does not have a technician, so our help seems to be more appreciated and needed there. There is no workshop, so the head doctor gave us the TB office to work in…. sketchy? The office is free during the day because the hospital only sees TB patients at night, in order to provide some kind of quarantine against the other patients, particularly those with HIV. I just try not to think about it. Good thing we all have vaccinations.

Now for a quick rant: sanitation at both hospitals is practically non-existent. You would think it would be fairly easy to find soap in a hospital, right? Wrong. In the staff bathroom, no soap. In the examination rooms, no soap. In the operating rooms, a tiny, very questionable bar of soap. Call me a germaphobe, but it should not be this difficult to find soap in a hospital. And don’t even get me started on toilet paper. The operating room is lined with open windows, and the “sterile zone” consists of a red line on the floor, which in order to cross you have to change your shoes. Well at least they’re trying…

On Friday we were called to fix an anesthesia machine in the OR. We were taught in our classes last month to avoid touching anything unnecessary in the OR, and that it is best to remove equipment from the room before beginning work. As soon as we walk in, Jonas goes to town, setting all our dirty tools right on the operating bed. It was a lost cause. A nurse came in and told us we had to leave momentarily because they needed to see a patient right away. A very pregnant woman calmly walked in and gave birth on that same operating table, just moments after we had used it as our tool bench. When she was done, we got back to work. Hakuna matata. 

Miguel, Inka, me, Charlotte, and Jonas, in the OR with our newly fixed anesthesia machine. Stoked!
On the bright side, we were able to successfully fix the anesthesia machine, despite being horribly intimidated by it at first. Miguel (our Peruvian engineering instructor from last month) rotates around all the hospitals, so we were fortunate to have him that day. He is incredible in the field, and always a constant source of humor. We found the problem in the ventilator, so as we always do when we don’t know the cause, we took it apart. After poking around and not finding anything suspicious, dejected and disheartened at our failed attempt, we put the ventilator back together… and it WORKED!! Electronics are always a mystery.

The pace of work in Tanzania is slow and frustrating. Finding parts that would normally just require a quick run to Home Depot is a tedious and tiring processes, moving from shop to shop, trying to explain in Swahili what you need. There are no big hardware stores, only small hole-in-the-wall shops that you walk up to and tell the person what you need. You can’t just look around and browse like stores in the U.S., you are forced to talk to people. We needed a small bracket to fix a dental amalgamator yesterday, and had to try about five different stalls before finding something that might work. I wish I had a picture of the local hardware shops, but I live in fear of showing my camera or anything else of value in public. Being an Mzungu (“white person”), especially in this part of town, we are walking targets for robbery. Wearing a money belt and leaving everything else at home is the way to go.

Despite these frustrations, we had a successful first week. We fixed two oxygen concentrators, a centrifuge, two anesthesia machines, a water heater, and a bedside monitor. We are still in the process of fixing the dental amalgamator, another monitor, a voltage regulator, two medicine vaporizers, a printer, and installing new lights around the hospital.

Not happy with this ventilator...
If you stick to traditional African food places and are willing to risk possible food poisoning, eating in Tanzania is dirt cheap. The less English they speak, the cheaper the prices. We discovered this place across the street from our hospital called Losika Guest House. We eat a full meal of Pilau rice and meat, complete with tea and chipati, for the equivalent of about $2. I always leave feeling stuffed. Of course, in the touristy areas you can find a few Western food places which attract all the Mzungu, but they are much more expensive.

Treating ourselves at Africafe, a very Mzungu place
On Thursday night, we went to a popular night club called Via Via. The club is outdoors, under cabanas. Thursday night is Mzungu night, so it was completely packed with a mix of about 50/50 local people and white tourists. Funny how all the white people in Tanzania magically congregate and find each other at this little club. We ran into a group of Canadian dental students that we met while climbing Mt. Meru. We danced until the early morning hours, but had so much fun that feeling exhausted the next day at work was totally worth it.

On Saturday, we met up with the rest of our group and went to visit a coffee farm. It was great to see everyone again, and the coffee was of course delicious. Our host Baba Steven took us through the entire process of Tanzanian coffee making, starting with picking. After filling several buckets with fresh coffee beans, we used a hand-cranked machine to pull the shells off. Next, the beans were crushed using a wooden bowl and a long log. We then took turns roasting the beans over a fire. After grinding the beans once more, we brewed coffee and drank it, while watching Juan attempt to climb a tall tree and pick parachichi (“avocado”). Great entertainment.

Picking coffee
Trying to find the red ones
Artsy Fartsy
Baba Steven shows us how it's done
Frankie, the most adorable kid I've ever met
Frankie took a liking to Aman
Removing the shells
Raelyn grinds the beans
Roasting

That night we went to a sports bar called empire, drank cheap sangria, and watched the Olympics.

On Sunday, we visited a nearby lake. The place was deserted, since everyone was at church. We wanted to paddle out, but the man working wanted to charge us 45,000 tsh (approx. $30) to rent the crappiest looking canoe you’ve ever seen. We offered him 20,000 tsh, but he wouldn’t take it. Which was just silly, it wasn’t like he was going to get any other customers that day. Instead, we settled for sitting by the lake eating chipsi mayai (basically a French fry omelet). Later, we drank milkshakes at an amazing cafe called Tanz Hands. Beats rice and beans.

Despite all these incredible experiences and great people I am surrounded by, I am starting to really miss home. Three more weeks! 

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